Tools you need for front wheel bearing on a 2017-2022 Honda CR-V

The 5th-gen CR-V does not use the convenient four-bolt hub assembly found on many SUVs. The front bearing is a press-fit cartridge in the steering knuckle with a separate pressed hub flange, so the real work is not removing the knuckle — it is pressing the old bearing out and the new one in squarely. Either pull the knuckle and use a shop press, or buy/rent a hydraulic FWD bearing press kit that works with the knuckle on the car.

The thing people get wrong is press direction and support. Pressing the new hub in while supporting the bearing's outer race drives the load through the ball set and ruins a brand-new bearing, which then howls a few hundred miles later. Second most common mistake is reusing the staked spindle nut — buy a new one with the bearing kit.

Complete tool and parts list

Differences within the 2017-2022 generation

Tool sizes are identical for the 1.5 L turbo, the 2.4 L K24 (non-US markets) and the hybrid: 19 mm lug nuts, 10 mm ABS sensor bolt, 12 mm caliper slide bolts, 17 mm caliper bracket and suspension nuts, and the same spindle nut. Only the driveaxle and brake rotor sizes differ by trim, which does not change the bearing procedure. Hybrids add high-voltage cabling near the transmission area — keep clear of any orange harness.

Torque specs

How the job goes

1. Park on level ground, chock the rear wheels, loosen the five 19 mm lug nuts about half a turn while the tyre is still down.
2. Unstake the spindle nut collar with a punch, then crack the 32 mm axle nut loose with a breaker bar or impact while the wheel is on the ground.
3. Jack the front up at the pinch-weld point, set jack stands under the designated lift points, and remove the wheel.
4. Remove the 10 mm bolt and unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor and its harness from the knuckle — do not let the caliper or sensor hang by the wire.
5. Remove the two 12 mm slide bolts, lift the caliper off and hang it from the spring with wire, then remove the two 17 mm caliper bracket bolts and the bracket.
6. Remove the rotor (T30 screw if fitted; a couple of dead-blow taps free a rusted one).
7. Fully remove the spindle nut and washer. Tap the axle stub inward with a dead-blow mallet so it releases from the hub splines.
8. Pull the cotter pins and undo the tie rod end nut and lower ball joint nut (17 mm), then separate both tapers with a separator or puller.
9. Support the lower arm, undo the two strut-to-knuckle bolts (hold the nut with a wrench), and lift the knuckle off the axle and off the car.
10. On a press: press the hub out of the bearing, remove the snap ring if fitted, then press the bearing cartridge out of the knuckle from the inboard side using the correct cups. Alternatively use an in-car hydraulic bearing press kit with the knuckle still on the car.
11. Pull the inner race left on the old hub flange with a bearing splitter if you are reusing the hub — most people fit a new hub instead.
12. Wire-brush the knuckle bore clean, wipe it, apply the thinnest film of anti-seize, then press the new bearing in squarely, pressing only on the outer race, until it seats. Fit the snap ring if the design uses one.
13. Press the new hub into the bearing supporting the inner race, not the outer — pressing through the balls destroys a new bearing.
14. Refit the knuckle: axle through the hub, strut bolts, ball joint and tie rod. Torque the strut bolts, ball joint nut and tie rod nut to spec and fit new cotter pins.
15. Fit the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper, torque the bolts, then reinstall the ABS sensor with its 10 mm bolt and clip the harness back in its brackets.
16. Fit the new spindle nut, torque to spec with the brake applied or the wheel on the ground, then stake the collar into the axle groove with a punch.
17. Refit the wheel, lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lb in a star pattern.
18. Pump the brake pedal until firm, then test drive: clear any ABS/VSA light by driving a short distance; confirm the noise is gone and check for a pull or steering vibration.

Watch out

Lug nuts (19 mm), ABS sensor bolt (10 mm), caliper slide bolts (12 mm) and 17 mm caliper bracket/suspension hardware are reliable across the 5th gen; measure your spindle nut before buying a socket (32 mm is typical, some units are 30 mm) and confirm every torque figure other than the 80 ft-lb lug spec against the Honda service manual.

Other jobs on the 2017-2022 Honda CR-V

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on other vehicles