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Tools you need for front wheel bearing on a 2021-2024 Ford F-150

Moderate · 2-4 hours per side for a first-timer, about 1.5 hours if nothing is seized · Updated 2026-09-14
Must-have tools
  1. 21 mm socket, 1/2 in drive (lug nuts)
  2. 36 mm axle nut socket, 1/2 in drive
  3. 18 mm 6-point socket, 1/2 in drive
  4. 1/2 in breaker bar and long extension
  5. Torque wrench, 250 ft-lb capacity

On the 14th-gen F-150 the front bearing is a sealed hub cartridge bolted to the knuckle with three bolts from the back side, with the ABS wheel speed sensor built in. That makes it a straightforward job on paper: wheel off, caliper and rotor off, sensor and vacuum line unplugged, three bolts out, hub out. The real work is almost always breaking a rust-bonded hub out of the knuckle bore, which is why a bolt-on slide hammer puller earns its place in the list.

What varies is drivetrain, not engine. 4x4 trucks add a 36 mm axle nut and the IWE vacuum actuator line at the hub; 2WD trucks have neither and the job takes about half the time. The thing people get wrong is not cleaning the knuckle bore. Leave rust scale in there and the new hub sits cocked, which gives you a wheel-speed signal fault or a bearing that howls again within a year.

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Complete tool and parts list

ItemType
Floor jack
2.5 ton or larger, lifting front crossmember/frame rail
Raises the front of the truck to remove the wheel.
Requiredshop
Jack stands
3 ton pair, under frame rails
Supports the truck while you work under the wheel arch.
Safetyshop
Wheel chocks

Keeps the truck from rolling with one axle off the ground.
Safetyshop
Impact wrench or breaker bar
1/2 in drive
Loosens lug nuts, axle nut and the hub retainer bolts.
Requiredshop
Lug nut socket
21 mm, 1/2 in drive, thin-wall or protective sleeve for alloy wheels
All 14th-gen F-150 lug nuts are 21 mm (13/16 in also fits).
Requiredshop
Axle nut socket
36 mm, 1/2 in drive, 6-point (4x4 only)
Removes the front CV axle retaining nut on 4WD trucks.
Requiredshop
Socket set
Metric 10-21 mm, 3/8 and 1/2 in drive
Caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts and brake hose/ABS harness brackets.
Requiredshop
Hub bolt socket
18 mm 6-point, 1/2 in drive (verify on your truck; some are 21 mm)
The three hub retainer bolts thread in from behind the knuckle.
Requiredshop
Extensions and wobble/swivel adapter
1/2 in drive, 6 in and 10 in plus universal joint
Reaches the rear hub bolts past the axle shaft and dust shield.
Requiredshop
Torque wrench
1/2 in drive, 50-250 ft-lb range
Hub bolts, axle nut and lug nuts are all high-torque fasteners.
Requiredshop
Torque wrench (small)
3/8 in drive, 10-80 ft-lb
Caliper guide pin bolts and sensor/bracket hardware.
Recommendedshop
Slide hammer with hub puller adapter
5-lug bolt-on hub puller, 1/2-20 studs
Pulls a corroded hub flange out of the knuckle without hammer damage.
Recommendedshop
Dead blow or brass hammer
2-3 lb
Taps the axle shaft back through the hub and frees the rotor.
Recommendedshop
Pry bar
12-18 in
Separates the hub from the knuckle and holds the rotor while loosening.
Recommendedshop
Bungee cord or mechanic's wire

Hangs the caliper so the brake hose is not stressed.
Requiredshop
Trim/hose pick tool
Small hook pick set
Releases the IWE vacuum line clip and the wheel speed sensor connector tab on 4x4 hubs.
Recommendedshop
Wire brush / die grinder with wire wheel

Cleans rust from the knuckle bore so the new hub seats flat.
Requiredshop
Penetrating oil

Soak the hub bolts and axle nut the night before; they seize badly with road salt.
Consumablesshop
Brake cleaner
Non-chlorinated, 2 cans
Cleans the rotor, knuckle bore and any grease off the pads.
Consumablesshop
Anti-seize compound
Nickel or copper based
Thin film on the knuckle bore and rotor hub face only — never on bolt threads that have a torque spec.
Consumablesshop
Front hub and bearing assembly
With integrated ABS sensor; 4WD and 2WD part numbers differ, heavy-payload/Raptor use their own
The bearing is not serviceable; the whole cartridge is replaced.
Partsshop
Hub retainer bolts
Three per side
Ford recommends new bolts; old ones are often rusted and stretched.
Partsshop
Front axle nut
New self-locking nut, 4x4 only
The staked/locking axle nut should not be reused.
Partsshop
Safety glasses and gloves

Rust and wire wheel debris come straight down at your face.
Safetyshop
Scan tool
Ford-capable, ABS module codes
Clears the stored ABS/wheel speed sensor DTC after the repair.
Recommendedshop

Differences within the 2021-2024 generation

Tool sizes do not change with the 2.7 or 3.5 EcoBoost, 5.0 V8 or PowerBoost. Drivetrain matters instead: 4x4 trucks need a 36 mm axle nut socket and care with the IWE vacuum line, while 2WD trucks have no axle nut at all. Raptor and heavy-payload trucks use a different hub part number and larger brakes, so confirm caliper bracket bolt size on those before starting.

Torque specs

Wheel lug nuts150 ft-lb (204 Nm)
Front hub retainer bolts (3)verify in the service manual
Front axle nut (4x4)verify in the service manual
Brake caliper guide pin boltsverify in the service manual
Caliper anchor bracket to knuckle boltsverify in the service manual

How the job goes

  1. The night before, spray penetrating oil on the three hub bolts behind the knuckle and on the axle nut.
  2. Chock the rear wheels, loosen the 21 mm lug nuts while the tire is on the ground, then jack the front frame rail and set jack stands. Remove the wheel.
  3. On 4x4 trucks, have a helper hold the brake or fit a hub-holding tool, then break the 36 mm axle nut loose and remove it.
  4. Unbolt the brake caliper guide pin bolts, lift the caliper off and hang it with a bungee. Do not let it hang on the hose.
  5. Remove the caliper anchor bracket bolts from the knuckle, then pull the rotor off. If it is rust-locked, thread bolts into the rotor's puller holes or tap the hat with a dead blow.
  6. Unplug the wheel speed sensor connector (the sensor is part of the hub) and, on 4x4, unclip the IWE vacuum line and its retainer from the back of the hub. Free any harness clips from the knuckle.
  7. Turn the steering to gain access, then remove the three hub retainer bolts from behind the knuckle using an 18 mm socket, extension and wobble adapter.
  8. Push the CV axle shaft inboard out of the hub splines with a few taps from a brass or dead blow hammer. Support the axle; do not let it hang on the inner joint.
  9. Work the hub out of the knuckle. If it is stuck, bolt a slide hammer puller to the wheel studs and pull it straight out. Avoid hammering on the hub flange edges.
  10. Wire-brush all rust out of the knuckle bore and off the mating face until the new hub can sit flat. Check the bolt threads in the knuckle are clean.
  11. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the knuckle bore only, fit the new hub with the sensor and vacuum port oriented as the old one was, and start the three new bolts by hand.
  12. Torque the hub bolts to spec in a criss-cross pattern, reconnect the speed sensor and IWE vacuum line, and route the harness back into its clips.
  13. Slide the axle shaft into the hub splines, fit a new axle nut and torque to spec with the brake held.
  14. Clean the rotor of shipping oil, reinstall the anchor bracket and rotor, refit the caliper and torque the guide pin bolts.
  15. Refit the wheel, lower the truck, and torque lug nuts to 150 ft-lb in a star pattern.
  16. Pump the brake pedal until firm, clear any ABS codes with a scan tool, then test drive at low speed and check 4WD engages and disengages cleanly.
  17. Re-torque the lug nuts after about 50 miles.

Watch out

The 21 mm lug nuts at 150 ft-lb and the 36 mm front axle nut on 4x4 trucks are solid for this generation; the hub retainer bolt head size can be 18 mm or 21 mm depending on build, so check yours before buying a socket and look up the hub bolt, axle nut and caliper torque values in the Ford workshop manual for your exact VIN.

Frequently asked

What size socket is the front axle nut on a 2021-2024 F-150?

36 mm, 6-point, on 1/2 inch drive for 4x4 trucks. Use a 6-point socket — the nut is soft and rounds off easily with a 12-point.

Do I have to remove the knuckle or press the bearing?

No. The hub and bearing is a bolt-on cartridge held by three bolts through the back of the knuckle, so no press and no knuckle removal is needed. You only need a puller if corrosion has locked the hub into the knuckle bore.

Why does my 4WD not engage after replacing the hub?

You probably left the IWE vacuum line off, kinked it, or did not seat the actuator on the back of the hub. The vacuum system pulls the wheel-end clutch apart; a leak leaves the front end grinding or in permanent 2WD.

Do I need to reset anything after the job?

There's no relearn, but the ABS module usually stores a wheel speed sensor code from being unplugged, so clear it with a scan tool. Then test drive and confirm the ABS, traction control and trailer sway lights are out.

Other jobs on the 2021-2024 Ford F-150

Oil ChangeFront Brake Pads and RotorsRear Brake Pads and RotorsBattery ReplacementSpark Plug ReplacementAlternator ReplacementStarter ReplacementCoolant FlushSerpentine Belt ReplacementTire RotationHeadlight Bulb ReplacementWiper Blade ReplacementThermostat ReplacementFront Strut ReplacementCabin Air Filter ReplacementEngine Air Filter ReplacementTransmission Fluid ChangeOxygen Sensor ReplacementWater Pump Replacement

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement on other vehicles

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